NEW DELHI — Global luxury label Ralph Lauren is under fire on social media following the launch of a “print cotton wrap skirt” priced at ₹44,800. The garment, which clearly utilizes patterns inspired by the traditional Indian Bandhini tie-dye technique, has reignited a fierce debate over cultural appropriation and the lack of credit given to Indian artisans.
The controversy follows a similar incident where the brand faced criticism for listing “Jhumka” earrings as “vintage accessories” without acknowledging their South Asian heritage.
The Controversy: Pricing and Attribution
The skirt features a cascading angled hem and patterns that the brand’s own description admits “draw inspiration from Bandhini tie-dye techniques.” However, critics point out several issues:
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Lack of Credit: The listing fails to explicitly credit India or the specific artisan communities in Gujarat and Rajasthan where Bandhini originated centuries ago.
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Authenticity Questions: Social media users have noted that the item appears to be a digital print rather than authentic, hand-tied Bandhini, leading to accusations of “plagiarism” of traditional arts.
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Premium Pricing: While authentic Bandhini is available in India at various price points, the ₹44,800 tag is being viewed as “rebranding traditional designs at luxury prices” without benefiting the original craftspeople.
Social Media Reaction
The internet response has been swift and vocal, with users expressing exhaustion over global fashion houses utilizing South Asian motifs:
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“Just because we don’t ‘patent’ our crafts… it does not give anyone a free pass to plagiarize Indian Arts,” wrote one user.
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Others compared the incident to previous controversies involving brands like Zara and Prada, calling for a “leave us alone” approach toward uncredited heritage designs.
The Heritage Factor
Bandhini is an ancient tie-dye practice that holds deep cultural and historical significance in India. It requires intricate manual skill, where fabric is tied into thousands of tiny knots before dyeing to create complex patterns. Experts argue that when luxury brands use these motifs without proper attribution or collaboration, it devalues the labor and history of the actual artisans.
Ralph Lauren has yet to issue an official statement regarding the online criticism or the requests for more transparent cultural acknowledgement.
